by Evin Morrison, Extension Master Gardener
Photos © Evin Morrison
The “grocery store” orchid . . . an enticing treat to any plant lover. Usually situated among the cut flowers and about the same price as a large bouquet, why not pick one up? After all, it has roots and will last longer than a bunch of daisies. But what happens when those beautiful tropical blooms fade, and you’re left with just a few large green leaves in a pot?
Well, close your eyes and cover your ears: A lot of people toss them in the trash, buy a new one, rinse and repeat. That’s a lot of orchids headed straight to the landfill, orchids that are very much alive and have the ability to rebloom. It just takes a little legwork on your part and, truthfully, quite a bit of patience.
So, what is the “grocery store” orchid? It’s a silly name for a common species of orchid called Phalaenopsis. They come in a variety of colors and sizes and in the orchid world are considered one of the easier orchids to grow. Phalaenopses also are called Phals or moth orchids, so this one plant may go by many names, but setting it up for success as a houseplant is the same.
First step when you come home is to take it out of the pot. Yes, they may look beautiful and ready to display right off the bat, but these orchids have made a long trip from the grower’s facilities to the stores in boxes, they’ve been watered erratically, and some are planted in a sponge material rather than moss jammed into a little plastic sleeve. It’s basically the perfect storm leading to root rot.
Start by carefully pulling away any spent leaves. Anything that’s yellowing or brown, crispy or squishy needs to go. Then you will move onto the roots. Start by removing as much of the moss, sponge, or bark as you can. With a sharp and disinfected pair of scissors, start to prune away the dead and decaying roots. Orchid roots should be a light green or creamy color, but, whatever the color, they should always be firm. Cut all brown, squishy, or dried-out and papery roots as far up to the base as possible. Between each cut, wipe down your scissors with rubbing alcohol to avoid spreading any bacteria.
Take your time; it’s easy in the tangle of roots to cut too far and accidentally snip away healthy plant material. If you have a plant that needs a lot pruning, it’s OK to place it in a vase of water to help stimulate more root growth but check on it often to make sure the rot isn’t spreading and change the water every few days.
Once you have a cleaned-up specimen, you can replant it using the moss from before but add a little commercially available orchid bark to help create some airflow for the roots. You can either plant it back in the same container or mount it -planting it in a hanging orchid basket. In the wild, many orchids grow attached to trees up in the canopy, so they make great options for mounting. Orchid baskets are also widely available and make an interesting display while allowing maximum airflow to the roots. Just make sure in both instances that you don’t let the substrate dry out too much. These tropical plants thrive in humidity and can’t handle dry periods for too long.
As mentioned above, the flowers won’t last forever. All good things must come to an end, but there’s life still left in your plant, so resist the urge to toss it. Once all the flowers have dropped away, take your sharp and disinfected scissors and cut the flower spike down to the leaves. This signals to the plant to focus its energy on root growth and leaf production rather than on blooming. Continue watering it the same way as before, not allowing it to dry out, but not allowing it to remain soggy. When the plant is severely underwatered, the leaves will look wrinkled or puckered.
Fertilizers can be helpful to keep the plant thriving, but it’s important to use one that’s specifically for orchids as they can be sensitive to over fertilizing. Follow all the directions for the fertilizer to avoid burning or overfertilizing. Orchids, being epiphytes, plants that grow on other plants but are not parasitic, also have the incredible power to absorb fertilizer from their leaves. You can mist your plant with some orchid fertilizers in spray bottles instead of watering with a diluted liquid feed.
Additionally, if you have dappled shade, your orchid would love a summer vacation outside. Hang baskets from a tree, put potted orchids in a protected part of your patio and they will thrive on rainwater and humidity. Make sure they aren’t in direct sun to avoid burning and in long periods without rain, make sure you give them a drink.
To get an orchid to rebloom in the winter months, move it closer to a closed window. Many orchids need a cold period to trigger the reblooming process. Of course, a cold period for an orchid is much different than a cold period for our native plants. Think 60 degrees rather than below freezing. To a tropical plant, a few months at 60 degrees is like a trip to the ski hill. Make sure that no part of the plant is touching the glass but is close enough to have a little chilly air while tucked away in your heated home.
Lastly, be patient. You might not get your orchid to rebloom every year. If you learn to enjoy the foliage, then the time it does rebloom will be that much sweeter.
P.S. Many people swear by watering orchids with a single ice cube, and many people have had huge success with this. And just as many that have seen their orchids fail. While it may be easier for you to pop an ice cube on top of your substrate and walk away, it’s important to think about where a plant comes from and its environment and do your best to replicate it. Tropical orchids do not encounter ice in the wild, they get watered by tepid rainwater. So consider keeping your ice cubes for your favorite summer drinks and try watering your orchids with collected rainwater.